I wanted them to be exactly 9.5' from the roof edge, but the house’s foundation was recessed 2' from the roof’s drip edge and stuck out 26” from under the bay windows. It was a little bit difficult to figure out where to dig the post holes. To prepare for the final inspection, I took pictures of each critical step to show the building inspector, which made the final inspection a snap. They made a couple of alterations to the plan that not only were easy to accommodate but also made the project easier and cheaper! I took the plans to the town’s permit and licensing office, filled out some paperwork, and the next morning I got a call and went back to the permit office to pick up and pay for the permit, which came to $85. Getting the building permit was actually much easier than I thought.

As long as the property owner didn't care if I wasn't a licensed contractor, they didn't either.

So I called the permit and licensing office and got the correct answers. Some people said a building permit was unnecessary, while others said it was impossible to get without a contractor's license, or that it would raise my property tax, etc. Getting a Building Permit for a Patio Cover The associate also arranged for delivery, which cost $25. The lumber store I bought from had an associate who simply made sure I bought the correct materials for the job by looking over my plan and suggesting shorter screws for the joist hangars and a lower grade of lumber for the areas of the patio cover that would not be exposed to the weather.

Some are aggressive and want to push customers into an insane buying frenzy, bringing up a storm of confusing nonsense that somehow equates spending more to saving more. Total material costs ranged from $2,200 down to $800. In the same town, in an area of fewer than 10 miles, the difference in prices was enormous. Shopping around for the best prices for materials was absolutely necessary. Although more costly, they hold much better than framing nails outdoors. Another substitution I made was choosing 3- and 4-inch deck screws instead of framing nails. For instance, I chose drywall screws instead of nails because, for some reason, they were less expensive, and they won’t try to work themselves back out after a few years. Also, be prepared to modify your plan at the store when you’re getting your materials, as doing so can save you money. I had originally planned on using 4”x4” beams and joists, but local codes wouldn’t allow for them, so I used 10”x2' headers and 6”x2' joists, which worked out just fine. Numberġ” x 6” x 10’ boards (metal roof nailers) This meant the patio cover could start at the edge of the house’s roof at a height of eight feet and slope down to seven feet, leaving a clearance of more than six and a half feet between the lowest part of the frame's headers and the ground at its outer edge.ĭepending on your house and preferences, the materials you'll need may differ. Using corrugated metal also allows me to reduce the degree of slope, or roof pitch, needed to a mere 10 percent, or a 1-to-10 pitch.

I decided on corrugated metal roofing because it’s resistant to high winds, is lightweight, and is structurally sound. A tar roof would work, but it would be a heavy smell like a BP oil spill. Since my patio cover was going to have a slight slope, shingles were out.

While looks are important, you want to make sure that the materials fit the structure. Selecting Materials to Build a Patio Cover If you’re interested in making your own patio cover, read on for instructions on how to do so. While it would be difficult and expensive to fix both the windows and the door, I decided that since both overlooked my patio, a patio cover would effectively keep foul weather away from the bay window and back door, making it a cheaper and easier fix. For instance, the bay windows at the back of my house leak during thunderstorms, and the backdoor freezes shut during winter.

Metal lattice panels